A tree-lined drive, a honey-coloured stone façade bristling with turrets, and below, the Dordogne valley stretching out in the morning mist. The Château des Milandes tells far more than a page of history: this is where Josephine Baker, music-hall star, Resistance fighter and civil rights activist, chose to live and build her dream of a universal family.
Built at the end of the 15th century in the village of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, Josephine Baker’s castle welcomes many visitors every year who come to discover its rooms, chapel, gardens and birds of prey show. History, visit, practical tips and ideas for nearby outings: here is our guide to making the most of Les Milandes from the Château de Maraval, in the heart of the Périgord Noir.
The Château des Milandes at a glance
Before going into detail, here are the essentials to help you locate the château and plan your visit.
- Where? In Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, Dordogne, on a hillside overlooking the Dordogne valley, between Castelnaud and Beynac.
- For whom? History lovers, admirers of Josephine Baker, families (children love the birds of prey) and anyone who enjoys beautiful gardens.
- How long? The audio-guided tour of the château lasts more than 45 minutes; allow 2 to 3 hours to enjoy the gardens, the chapel and the birds of prey show as well.
- When? The site is open for much of the year, with opening times that vary by season. Always check the official calendar before you go.
The history of the Château des Milandes, from 1489 to today
A Renaissance residence born of a love story
The story of Les Milandes begins in 1489. François de Caumont, lord of Castelnaud, had this residence built at the request of his wife, Claude de Cardaillac, who preferred an elegant, light-filled home to the austere family fortress perched on the nearby cliff. The result is a château straddling the Gothic and Renaissance styles, with mullioned windows, steep roofs and slender turrets.
In the early 20th century, the estate was restored and its formal French gardens were designed by the landscape architect Jules Vacherot. A few years later, these elegant lines would charm a young American artist who had become the idol of Roaring Twenties Paris.
Josephine Baker’s castle
Josephine Baker discovered Les Milandes in 1937 and fell under its spell. She first rented the château, then bought it in 1947, the year she married the bandleader Jo Bouillon in the estate’s chapel. During the Second World War she joined the French Resistance, a commitment that later earned her several decorations and, in 2021, a place in the Panthéon.
At Les Milandes she did more than live: she turned the estate into a lively place of entertainment, with a hotel, restaurants, a cabaret and a leisure park, to bring life to the village and welcome the public.
The Rainbow Tribe and the dream of a world village
From 1953, Josephine Baker and Jo Bouillon adopted twelve children of different nationalities and religions. She called them her “Rainbow Tribe”: living proof, in her eyes, that brotherhood between peoples was possible. This generous but very costly project eventually ruined her. Deep in debt, she had to leave Les Milandes in 1969, a painful chapter the visit recalls with great sensitivity.
Les Milandes today
The château now belongs to Angélique de Labarre, who works to keep the artist’s memory alive. The site was awarded the “Maison des Illustres” label by the French Ministry of Culture in 2012, and its gardens are listed as “Jardins remarquables” (Remarkable Gardens). A fitting recognition for a place that blends medieval heritage with 20th-century history.
What to see when visiting the Château des Milandes
The interiors and Josephine Baker’s world
You explore the château at your own pace with an audio guide. Room after room, you discover the drawing rooms, the children’s bedrooms, the Art Deco bathrooms and many mementos of the artist: photographs, posters, stage costumes and personal belongings. You follow the revue star, the Resistance fighter, the civil rights activist and the mother all at once. A moving visit that appeals to history buffs and curious travellers alike.
The chapel
Built in the early 16th century, the chapel of Les Milandes has been the scene of recent discoveries, including wall paintings and a crypt. A dedicated audio-guided tour of about 25 minutes is available. It is also where Josephine Baker was married in 1947.
The remarkable gardens
Flowerbeds, clipped box hedges, ponds, fountains and statues: the formal gardens invite you to wander. From the terrace, the view over the Dordogne valley is superb, especially in autumn when the wooded hillsides turn russet and gold. If you love gardens, continue with the Marqueyssac gardens on the other side of the river (article in French).
The birds of prey show
This is often the children’s favourite moment. On the façade of the château facing the valley, the falconers present around ten birds: eagles, falcons, buzzards and owls swoop over the audience in an impressive ballet, with explanations about their way of life. In 2026, from 1 October to 11 November, the demonstrations take place at 11.15 am and 3 pm: plan your visit around one of these sessions.
Visiting the Château des Milandes in autumn
The shoulder season is an ideal time to discover Les Milandes. The summer crowds have gone, the golden light shows off the stone and the gardens take on their autumn colours. Here are our tips to make the most of it:
- Go in the morning: arrive at opening time, visit the château, then watch the 11.15 am birds of prey demonstration.
- Mind the autumn school holidays: visitor numbers rise a little around All Saints’ Day, but the atmosphere remains much calmer than in July and August.
- Bring a jumper: the terrace and gardens are exposed to the valley breeze, and mornings can be cool.
- Combine visits: autumn days are shorter, so group nearby sites together to limit driving.
Practical information for your visit
- Address: Château des Milandes, 24250 Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, France.
- Opening hours: vary by period (in October, from 9.30 am to 6.30 pm). Check them on the official Château des Milandes website.
- Tickets: on site, without booking, or online via the ticketing service listed on the official website.
- Food: a brasserie is open on site for visitors to the château.
- Pets: animals are not allowed on the site.
- Further information: the château’s page on the Dordogne Périgord Tourisme website gathers other useful details.
What to do around the Château des Milandes
Les Milandes lies at the heart of the valley of castles, one of the richest areas of the Périgord Noir. In a day or a weekend, you can easily round off your visit:
- Castelnaud-la-Chapelle: the fortress and its museum of medieval warfare, right next door. Find our visit ideas in our guide to Castelnaud-la-Chapelle (in French).
- Beynac-et-Cazenac: its fortified castle perched on the cliff and its characterful village, across the river.
- The Marqueyssac gardens: miles of paths and sculpted box hedges, with a spectacular belvedere over the valley.
- La Roque-Gageac and Domme: two of the most beautiful villages in France, one nestled at the foot of the cliff, the other perched on its promontory.
- Sarlat-la-Canéda: the medieval town and its golden-stone lanes, perfect for ending the day.
Our suggestion for a lovely day: the morning at Les Milandes with the birds of prey, lunch at the brasserie or in a neighbouring village, then the afternoon at Castelnaud or Marqueyssac to enjoy the valley views at sunset.
Stay near the Château des Milandes at the Château de Maraval
To explore Les Milandes and the valley of castles without rushing, nothing beats staying nearby. The Château de Maraval, a charming 4-star hotel set in a 15th-century château in Cénac-et-Saint-Julien, welcomes you in the heart of the Périgord Noir, about twenty minutes from Sarlat’s historic centre. Its 8 rooms and suites and its 12-hectare park offer a peaceful setting after a day of sightseeing.
A room paying tribute to Josephine Baker
Josephine Baker left her mark on the whole region, and the Château de Maraval pays tribute to her. Our Joséphine room, 31 m² with a king-size bed, celebrates the elegance and exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. The perfect way to extend your visit to Les Milandes in a setting that evokes the legendary artist.
A moment of well-being after your visits
Back at the château, it’s time to unwind: a wooden sauna in the garden, a jacuzzi and massages on request in our spa area, which can be privatised for a moment all to yourself. In the evening, you can dine on the estate without getting back in the car, with Chef Fabrice’s seasonal menu or a bespoke dinner prepared by our private in-house chef. Private parking is free for all our guests.
Ready to follow in Josephine Baker’s footsteps? Book your stay at the Château de Maraval and let our team help you plan your programme in the valley of castles.
Frequently asked questions about the Château des Milandes
Where is the Château des Milandes?
The Château des Milandes is located in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, in the Dordogne, in the Périgord Noir. It overlooks the Dordogne valley, between the castles of Castelnaud and Beynac, a few kilometres from the villages of La Roque-Gageac and Domme. Sarlat-la-Canéda, the nearest large town, makes it easy to combine your visit with a discovery of the medieval town.
Who owns the Château des Milandes today?
The Château des Milandes is now a private property belonging to Angélique de Labarre, who runs it and opens it to the public. The estate keeps Josephine Baker’s memory alive through its collections, and it received the “Maison des Illustres” label from the French Ministry of Culture in 2012. Its gardens are listed as “Jardins remarquables”.
How long does it take to visit the Château des Milandes?
The audio-guided tour of the château lasts more than 45 minutes and the chapel tour about 25 minutes. Adding a stroll through the gardens and the birds of prey show, allow 2 to 3 hours on site. The easiest approach is to time your arrival around one of the birds of prey demonstrations, whose schedule varies by season.
Why is the Château des Milandes associated with Josephine Baker?
Josephine Baker discovered Les Milandes in 1937, rented the château and then bought it in 1947. She lived there with her twelve adopted children, her “Rainbow Tribe”, and developed a major tourist and humanist project. Ruined, she had to leave the estate in 1969. Today the château retraces her life as an artist, Resistance fighter and activist, honoured in the Panthéon in 2021.
What is there to do around the Château des Milandes?
Around Les Milandes, you can visit Castelnaud castle and its museum of medieval warfare, Beynac castle, the Marqueyssac gardens and the villages of La Roque-Gageac and Domme. Sarlat-la-Canéda is also close by. To explore the area without stress, staying at the Château de Maraval, a 4-star hotel with a spa, is a comfortable option.
